Laid back Luang Prabang, Laos

Luang Prabang? Been there. You really don't want to go. Expensive, not very welcoming, filthy. You won't like it.

Okay, have they left yet? Those comments were so the backpackers and serious travelers get a little more time there before the rest of the world catches on. Fact is, this is probably the nicest place in Southeast Asia if your idea of a good time is just kicking back with some seriously nice people in a beautiful surrounding. Of course, if you require 5-star accomodations with a staff anticipating your every wish you won't find that - yet.

This is the first town I've seen that looks finished. In nearly every other place in Asia we've been it seems the usual method is to get up three walls and a roof, install some sort of shelving, put the stock on the shelves and open for business. In Luang Prabang, nearly everyone seems to have made an effort to make stuff look nice. Not in a Western manner, these folks still have their own definite ways, but very nice indeed.

Finally found one!
When I was in 'Nam, many years ago, these long-nose Citroens were everywhere.

Our hostel is a good case. Shared bath, sketchy as backpacker hostels are everywhere but totally adequate. No air conditioning in the room (a double, huge fairly soft mattress, not a given), unnecessary as Luang Prabang has quite a mild climate, table, chair and that's about it. On the other hand, there's a wonderful second floor balcony with cozy sitting area. 12 bucks a night. The staff is helpful and friendly with decent English. Actually the whole town has decent English, though I was delighted to find my rudimentary Thai was understood and happily responded to.

Morning procession of monks. The faithful fill their begging bowls with rice.

The town is small enough to easily negotiate on bicycles and traffic is as laid back as everything else. Nothing like the take-my-life-in-my-hands feeling you might get in Saigon or even Hoi An. Ten minutes to the mighty Mekong river, lined with open-air restaurants and boat landings. Across the street, a line of fairly luxurious hotels (no, I didn't check their prices) and shops. In town, a fairly common mix of street vendors, pretty good shopping, streets alive with local tribespeople with their distinctive local dress, tuk-tuks, tour agencies, all operating with a completely casual attitude. Say hello, pass the time of day and if a little business gets done, so much the better. Rule one: enjoy the day. Definitely enjoy the night. The main street gets closed down to traffic about 6 PM and locals put up their booths. Authentic native crafts, especially textiles at outrageously low prices, along with woodcarving, paintings, lots and lots of food. which reminds me: I finally got the perfect bowl of  chicken curry on the bank of the Mekong, my first in a 43 year search. Finally had the mystery ingredient identified - baby eggplant! Green, the size of a marble and just slightly bitter when crunched into. Also found out why it was impossible to find in Thai restaurants. It's a Lao innovation. My old post in northern Thailand used a lot of Lao cooking methods that didn't get carried further south. Not that there's anything wrong with the hundreds of chicken curries I've had at Thai restaurants in the States and elsewhere, they just lacked that one last bit of perfection.

Second day there, we signed up for the Mekong River cruise to the famous Buddha cave many miles downriver. Call it the cave of the frowning tourists. If that was your reason for taking the cruise, you will be disappointed. A middling size hole in a cliff filled with Buddhas left by pilgrims. A fairly steep climb up a concrete stairs to another cave with a fairly impressive Buddhist shrine, assiduously maintained by the monastery across the river. Take the tour for the river trip, which I found fascinating. Glimpses of daily life of those favored to have villages here (this must be very desirable real estate for Lao villagers), vegetable crops of all sorts growing right to the river's edge, net and line fishing, the fantastically varied geology along the river, scenes changing by tthe minute. Of course, it was romantically obscured by a smoky haze. Seems northern Laos and Thailand are being stressed just now by drought and resulting forest fires. Not to mention the Hill People's custom of burning forest to clear land for farming. After 3 or 4 years of crops the land is exhausted, so they burn over the old gardens and pick a new spot, which must be burned to prepare it for farming.

Of course we had to stop at a village for some sales resistance practice.
Failed, bought some beautiful scarves.
Might have had something to do with the samples of rice wine.

Later we took a small bus to a local waterfall. Hell of a ride, lots of thrills on the road.  Nice little waterfall. I have a 5 minute video of Liz braving the rope swing into the pool under the falls. As a plus there was a sanctuary for mistreated bears in the park. Met lots of nice folks, saw a pretty waterfall, good afternoon.

Yet another village stop.
How's your sales restance now?

Next morning we were due to leave. Wake up late, wander downtown for a truly good breakfast sandwich, baguette filled with ham, scrambled eggs, whatever. Lao coffee is worlds better than Vietnamese. Leisurely walk back and off to the miniature airport, finally at a civilized time for a flight. The customs and immigration procedures between Laos and Thailand are as laid back as the town was. Completely relaxed with a very cursory inspection of baggage and rather informal passport checks. Cool. Next up, a long stay in Chiang Mai.