Saturday, March 10, 2012

Liz on Air pollution, Luang Prabong and Chiang Mai

Author Colin Cotterill writes great murder mysteries set in Laos.  Our dear friend, Judy alerted us that Cotteril's latest novel, Slash and Burn is out and we fittingly snapped it up in the Luang Prabang bookstore. Proceeds support teachers in Laos. The novel formed a perfect backdrop for our visit. Like Chiang Mai in Laos smoke from fires compounded by smog from automobiles is a problem in Luang Prabang. In the novel the smoke from villagers' fires is so heavy that helicopters cannot fly.
Laos Airlines Box Snack

We spent $1200 flying thru Vietnam and Laos to Chaing Mai. There goes the budget. Backpackers might take the bus for a total cost of $100 per person instead of paying $600 per person for flights. We did not feel like dawdling in Vietnam. We saw some great places like Halong while we were there. Mike got well earned closure with his year of US Army service in 1967 and we move on.

We got to Laos to our $12 per night Halolua Backpacker Hostel, a new low in hostel prices for me. I felt like being cheap since we spent $164 to fly out of Hanoi and then paid $150 to fly to Chiang Mai. After 1 night we happily booked 3 more in Halolau. We liked the free coffee, free water, free Wifi, central location, the balcony and convenient bicycle rental. Comfortable temperatures and a small town feel made Luang Prabang our favorite. In Vietnam we flew via Vietnam Airlines and then to leave we flew with Laos Air. Vietnam Airlines only hands passengers a small bottle of drinking water whereas Laos Air hands out a sandwich, a small dessert and a beverage.

Below are photos of tourists around Chiang Mai. We stay in and around Chiang Mai until April 5. Thailand is an easy place to visit.

Mother and son feeding fish in this canal in center of Old City Section of Chiang Mai.
Pigeons want  Fishfood too. Below is the canal (klong in Thai).



Backpacker along the River.

            Tourist (following Guide) on Segway in front of a Medical Office for Tourists. .




                                              Tourists in Cooking Class in the local Market




                                            My Favorite Tourist of All Working on his Blog.
                        Mike: That's traveler to you, Lady. A different class of person entirely.


                        Luang Prabang Library takes Books by Boat to Children along the Mekong River

Air pollution is an unmeasured problem throughout Asia except in wealthy Singapore where vehicle sales are tightly controlled and only late models are on the road. Since Luang Prabang is inland the smoke smells are constant and more noticeable than in places like Bali and Vietnam where the ocean dissipates the smoke. People cook over wood fires, burn their waste and they burn incense for Buddha. As Mike explained they even burn cropland to inject it with potash when the soil is exhausted. Air pollution from vehicle exhaust is just a small part of day-to-day life.  Smoke in the air has been a way of life in Asia for centuries. Mike explains that villagers move in 3 or 4 years because that is as long as the jungle soil will support crops. The villagers burn the debris and then the jungle moves back in. Everyday is a cook-out in Asia and the atmosphere pays the price.

In Chiang Mai I came across a concluded community meeting apparently to focus on air pollution. Chiang Mai sits in a bowl like Denver and traps the smoke. The smog is so bad that it has been headlined in CCN. Chiang Mai Post headlines state “Rain making effort targets haze” and “Fighting smoke haze in the air and on the ground“. Respiratory complaints have increased 70% and loads of people wear face masks. I found a lost mask with a Gucci label on a sidewalk. Masks are a designer affair in Asia. Better than veils.


Thailand's Public Relations Version of Smokey the Bear's "Only You Can Prevent Forest Fires".

                             Firemen Demonstrate Capability to Media, Public and Students.

Buddhists Bless Cause to Reduce Fire

                     Grilled Fish in Market near our Hostel. Live fish swim in a tub next to grill.


                       Dais for Community Leaders to Advance need to End Burning Croplands.
                                                   Respiratory complaints are up 70%. 
                                           Soldier Securing the Chiang Mai "No Burn" Event.

I worry that I offend when I blog about how impressed I am by the use of dishes in Asia and Australia. Few paper products appear in Asia. Why are Americans today so wasteful while Asians are not? In Asia reuse is the only way it has ever been. Disposables are unavailable. Using dishes requires wash water, soap, plenty of dishes, dish rags and cheap, willing workers. Throwing away paper requires trash bags, trash collection and landfills.

So what would be consequence if I gathered plastic plates and utensils and put them in the dishwasher this Mother’s Day? I may have to run a few loads. What the heck? I am retired and I am willing. One reason that the US is so wasteful is we are a consumer driven society where women work. Is throwing away a lot of paper a measure of women’s equality? Do women feel that if they have to work then they ought not wash dishes even with dishwashers in their homes? Do men just go along to keep us quiet? Do Americans have a mania about cleanliness? Is the thinking, “It must be clean if it is brand new and never used“? How can any society sustain that (especially after giving away its base manufacturing to China)? That said, Mom, is it OK if I collect Chinette and plastic wear and wash them in your dishwasher? Ann said that you are reading this Blog! We are so proud that you are so interested! Is it OK if I run a lot of dish loads? I want my behavior to match values. I don’t want to be an arm chair critic who does nothing positive for my country. It is time to do dishes, America!

Now yet another toilet comment. Our French-run hostel Jai Dii House in Chiang Mai does not provide toilet paper. See their sign below. It clogs Thai plumbing. Mike and I feel old dogs learning new tricks on an intimate level as we learn how to spray ourselves. Yes, our underwear is a bit wet sometimes. This new behavior may come in handy in motor home only if the motor home has a kitchen sink-type water sprayer next to the toilet.

Thai people do not use toilet paper. They prefer to use a spray hose like a bidet.



Mr. Van Vu our guide in Vietnam told us that Vietnam has a 2-child policy. The Phillipines and Hong Kong also have 2-child policies. Wikipedia is not sure that the following information is up-to-date.  "Vietnam had a two-child policy in the 1960s, which was used again in the 1990s.[7] The movement has been proven to lower Vietnam's birth rate, which had previously been at nearly 4 children per woman. In 2003, the plan was discontinued. In 2008, it was announced that the government was considering reviving it."
Mr. Vu considers himself lucky because he has a 5 year old daughter followed by a son just 3 months ago. Vietnamese culture rates 2 sons as best. Worse is a son followed by a daughter and worst of all is 2 daughters. Mr. Vu liked Mike's saying that "marriage is a young man's disaster and an old man's comfort". He told us how he likes to drink beer with his married male friends but that his wife hates it when they go out. I suggested that in American culture in exchange for Men's Night Out we have Girl's Night Out.  What if his wife were to go out for 3 hours per week with his friends' wivies to have lunch and pamper themselves? He raised objections about how his wife is very traditional. Also that he does not do housework but he expects that his son may need to do some housework so he may have to change his ways and model doing some housework himself.   

We left cold Hanoi via Air Laos. We made friends with Lauren, a 23 year old Londoner traveling alone. She just finished “Uni” with a degree in linguistics and is torn between volunteering in Laos or working in PR in London. We spent the last of our Vietnamese Dong in the airport on snacks like nuts and crackers and then were surprised and pleased that we got a box with a sandwich and dessert on the Laos plane. Our cab driver was also babysitting his 3 year old son who stood in front of the passenger seat and played on the crash pad at once cute and horrifyingly unsafe.

                                              Boarding for Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand


                                                           Laos Airlines Stewardess


1 comment:

  1. I didn't get a notice on Saturday about your latest post like I usually do. Checked this morning because it seemed like one was due. So good to read more about Laos, Thailand, Vietnam area.

    ReplyDelete